Here's the pic of the finished product.


Pics have been moved to the last few posts of the thread!

I really like that idea. I might have to try it myself. What tools did you use?

can't see the pics

EDIT: its my firewall.

Try right clicking and copying the link then post it in a new window. If that doesn't work, you can go to www.picturetrail.com and view my pictures by entering the member name "Crazie400mod".

The pics seem to be working fine for me.

Very cool! I myself can't see spending $200-$300 on approx. 4HP and an annoyingly loud pipe. It also gives that cool "sleeper" look. How much louder is it everywhere in the RPM range? How was it welding that thinner metal? What jetting are you running now? I can do this myself, as soon as I get my hands on a extra muffler.

As for the sound. It's a lot louder than stock...but not overkill. It's still not as loud as a couple of people I ride with. We rode it around, but didn't have a chance to really open it up. I think it sounds really good. Not overly loud to me. Has a nice deep rumble when it idles. The thin metal welded up fine. My friend's brother did all the welding.

As far as jetting goes, I'm at 5,000ft and was running a 155 with just the pea-shooter cut out. I may have to go up a size...but I was running a bit rich before the conversion. The air is a lot thinner at this elevation....so I may not run as big of a jet as most people anyways.

What tools didn't we use.....

after removing the pipe, it needs to be cut in 3 places. They (since I didn't really work on it, only offered my "expert" advise on the situation) cut it with a grinder, and cut-off wheel, but then got smart and used our plasma cutter. First (if you want it short) cut it right behind the bolt mounts for the end cap, cause you'll need this later to weld to the end. Then cut it right in front of the last mounting hole (this way it will still bolt up in both locations with out having to relocate the mounts) The 3rd cut is at the begginning of the silencer on the first weld. Once you have that completed, it's time to break out the BFH (Big F__king Hammer), a chisel, and a large punch so you can beat out the innards. They also took a drill, and drilled out the chamber walls punching little holes over lapping each other all the way around until it was loose and able to come out. They did this so there wouldn't be as much pressure pushing out on the silencer, making it easier to punch out. After you gut the silencer, sit down and take a break, cause by this time your ready pass out. Once break time is complete you'll need to smooth all the edges of the silencer that you hacked apart and prepare it to be welded back together. You'll need some mesh screen to role up for a make shift-pipe for the now free flowing straight exhaust. Wrap the silencer packing around the outside of the mesh wire, and set it aside. Take your now hollowed silencer tube (the main body) and "tack-weld" it back to the smaller begginning piece where the pipe meets up with the silencer. once you tack it, put it back on the bike to make sure it fits before you completely weld it. After you get it to fit, weld it up, cool down the weld (stick it in water) and put the mesh tube with packing wrap inside the silencer. Take the small nose peice with the bolt flanges and line it up on the silencer (make sure your nose cap will face down, otherwise you'll look plain silly) and weld it in place. Next put the end cap on, stick it on the bike, and fire it up, because you are deffinitly to anxious to know how it sounds before you finsh the job. After you hear it and w00ter off the neighbors for a little while take the pipe back off, and grind down the welds so it doesn't look like a$$. paint it up, and put it back on. You should be complete.

Tools used..

Plasma cutter.
Grinder
Hammer (BIG)
punches, and chisels
Welder
Sander
Paint can w/ paint

That's all I can think of right now.

that looks awsome man i love it maybe we can get some sound clips???????

that's pretty cool man, good idea!!! :thumbsup

I wish I could do that myself. Tell me how much more low-end did you get compare to a stock pipe.

I have all the tools except a welder. If I do mine I'll try to see if there's a way to do it without welding it. Maybe I should get a used one to screw around on. Oh yeah,Merriman thanx for the explaination

Sportquad Racer: I don't have the capability to get some sound clips...but I'll see if any of the guys I work with have a digi camcorder I can borrow.

laquerre2906: Yes, I compared it to my stock silencer and I used the one with just the pea-shooter cut out to make this one...way more low end than both. I'm not even going to buy an aftermarket now. I've ridden a z with the same setup as mine, but with a full yosh...I think it's really close on low end. But I'll know for sure when I ride both of them on Friday night.

TxZ400: You could do it without welding, but it may be difficult. I would say maybe get a sleeve that will fit around the pipe and then maybe use pop rivets and a high-temp sealant under the sleeve. If you know anyone with a welder....it may be easier though.

ok thanks crazie

looks tite for some 1 who hasnt spent $300 on a pipe yet. :) :D :( :o : 8) :? 8O :x :P :oops: :cry: :wink: :roll: :twisted: :evil: :!: :?: :idea: :arrow:

That is awesome Crazie.....

Sorry guys, I have to bump this becaue a lot of people keep asking...and this thread was a real biatch to find.

The pics don't work any more

I realize the pics don't work. When I get time I'll upload them to my server and host from there.

In the meantime, the reason I bumped this thread is for the technical aspect. So that people can read it and see what they need to do the job with, and what the gains are.

The pics are up again!! :woo

I have noticed alot of old threads poppin up lately. Seems weird........like the one by broken-arrow...... :ot

bryan

Nice work with the silencer but do u ever ride that thing? My rear tires looked like that after a month of riding and u have not a single scratch on ur frame from boot wear at all mne are polished from my boots for about 8-10 inches.

I don't get any scratches from the boots, probably because I wear freestyle pants though.

As far as "do I ride"....LMAO. I've broken more parts on this thing than I can remember. Not only do I ride, but I ride hard. I do, however, take care of my quad also, and clean up really good when the riding is over.

And for those of you considering this project, I am going to re-design this pipe, because after I blew all the packing out, it was such a pain to re-pack that I bought a new pipe.

I haven't given up on this on yet, and when I get it re-designed, I'll do a full write up and review.

with the pipe cut does the bike perform better?

The way I did my pipe (not just cutting it short, but gutting it, and re-packing) it gave the quad as much low-end torque as I have with my full Sparks pipe. The only thing you'll be hurting on is top-end. I have way more top-end with my Sparks than I did stock (because of the bigger header).

You could always try going down a couple of teeth on the rear sprocket with this setup, or up 1 tooth on the front sprocket to compensate for the lost top end. Also, if you have a 13t front sprocket, 1st gear will be worthless.

Thanks, incase you didn't notice I did this a while back. I only went that far with it because I had a spare silencer, so it didn't matter if it failed miserably. But as it turned out, it's pretty damn sweet.

I tried cutting the pea-shooter out, and just busting the baffles, but this way yielded way more low end than either of those.

Thats a good idea too bad i already spent $238 for my pipe like 3months ago.

Well, I originally posted this thread about 5 months ago....look at the date of the first post.

Hey just throwing caution to the wind, I did that on a Scrambler i had, and I seemed to have problems with the mesh collapsing and ruining the packing. I even tried to use three layers of that stuff but it still did it. So what i ended up using was the core from a cherry bomb exhaust like you would use on you truck. Cut it to size and never had that problem again. Just my 2 cents for any one who may try it. It is way better than spending all that money for a shiney aluminum canister. But unfortunatly I did spend the money on my Raptor i have now. 8)

It will only happen if you use the thin stuff. Make sure whatever mesh you get, it's really thick. I had that problem also, which is why all the packing fell out.

the pics wont work

I'll upload the pics later, send me a PM to remind me.

is this mod worth is..because i think im goin to buy a sotck exhuats system and have this done,and would someone be intrested in doing it for me for money?

Here's the "extra" parts...hehehe. These are the baffles/packing/whatever else was in the pipe plus the extra 5 inches of pipe we cut off.

Here is the stripped pipe.

Cleaned up the endcap.

More endcap.

And repacked the exhaust using some wire mesh and my $10.99 silencer packing.

For those of you questioning whether or not it's worth the effort. Well, it gave me more low end than my full Curtis Sparks pipe. Just a little bit of a loss on top end though. You can re-gear to get that back though.

The only thing I recomment though, is that you come up with a way to repack it...and use a strong metal mesh with small holes. I ended up blowing all my packing out because the wire fell apart (was too weak), and I was throwing shrapnel everywhere. I also never re-packed it because I didn't design a way to re-pack.

I might try that with mine here sometime soon when I get my new one..lol

do u know if i could do it with a white bros e-series? cause my friend and i looked at it and we think it would be really easy

Several people have done this mod with an aftermarket exhaust, but I'd ask some questions about performance issues if I were you. There is a guy on this site that offers and exhaust cutting service for aftermarket pipes. I'm just not sure if the results will be the same with an aftermarket pipe.

can i buy that off u if i get a kfx?

I'm letting a friend of mine use it until he gets a pipe...but if he gets a pipe, then sure. I have no need for it.

My question is how can you justify your claim of more HP & torque? Has this pipe been dynoed against the factory pipe on the same ATV to verify there are no dips or "peaky" power production versus stock pipe and also to verify that you didn't lose any HP! How can you be positive that this is a worthwhile modification? The only way to make HP is only good as the greatest restriction so to support my statement the stock pipe would be the restriction stated. Thankyou for your time. I am skeptical until I see some proof that this is a honest HP & Torque builder. FYI- ATV riders don't need to get wrapped up in HP ratings too much because remember that when you are lugging around that the torque is just as important. Especially when trail riding a linear power prodution is so much better than one that "hits". So the mod I choose will be a decision on torque and HP increases.

First off, let me explain that dynos are for people who want to either prove a point, fine tune, or get HP/Torque numbers. I don't really care for any of it. I can't justify spending the $$$ on a dyno, when I can sit on it and feel the gains.

As far as HP numbers, I don't claim or care if it's more. I can feel there is a lot more torque on the low end with this mod. As well as anyone else who took a ride on my quad when I did this.

If you need it dynoed so you can believe it, then you'll probably just have to do the mod and get it dynoed. Quite frankly, I can't see anyone spending money on a dyno if they do this mod, because the only reason you do this mod in the first place is to save money. Not so I can spend a crap load of $$ on a dyno run.

I also never claimed to have a "Hit" anywhere in it powerband. It's still very smooth, just with a lot more power on the low end.

I'm sorry you're skeptical about this, but there has been quite a few people (around 8 or so) that have done this mod, and none have complained about a loss in power.

If I happen to run into a free dyno run or two, I'll test it out and let you know, but don't hold your breath.

You are absolutely correct when you state that dyno's are for hp|torque numbers; these numbers are the ones which let us know whether the last mod we made was worthwhile. I was just asking you for a solid foundation when you stated more torque! Torque where? At what RPM? How much more than stock and for how long? When I make a statement of more, mine will be back with facts not the seat of the pants meter. For example, I have seen products that feel stronger on autos and didn't do one damn thing for performance on the track or the dyno. Sometimes the ole seat of the pants meter is a little out of "calibration" . I can make this statement because I have been in that situation before and these questions were presented to me.

Okay, how's this one then. Without the mod, in the dunes, I was climbing the steep hills and in 2nd gear at the top. With this mod, I was pulling 3rd all the way up. I don't need a dyno, but obviously some people do!

Fight Fight! :)

I actually bought a stock can and modified it just like Crazie describes.

The mod did several things for me.
1. It woke the Z up on the bottom end. Does it have more torque? The better question I have is, Do I really care? If I can grab and go and I get a better response from that throttle then I did with the old can then you are damn right something is working.

2. It flat out sounds better. No more of this coughing thru a tin can sound. Now it barks thru a pipe.

3. It kept my wallet nice and fat. Truthfully if you don't want to do the mod I have nothing against you or anyone else who thinks it bogus. I felt about the same way, I wasn't sure what it would do, so I bought an extra can and tried it out. If it failed miserably then I was out $25 total.

BUT.. If it works as I feel it did for me for the time being then I save myself about $250 and at the time almost $325. Cause back then very were very few pipes out.

Anyone in Michigan who is good with a blow torch want to volunteer some time and effort to the Power for Pennies fund?

Would an acetylene+O2 torch work for welding?

Corpsie I can weld pretty good, you looking to do this mod? I'll lend a helping hand.