i want to replace my rear brake pads .i'm wondering if there is a best kind of pad to use.
should i get STANDARD BRAKE PADS. or should i get Semi-Metallic Brakes

I stock and sell the SBS sintered pads, they are the only way to fly for ATV's. I just got them added to my website, take a look.

Paul

what is so special about SBS sintered pads?why are they better?

What do you think about Streamlines braking products?? I happen to be connected with them and I never knew it...

Well, heres my take. Most major manufactures of brake pads have very similar products/prices when you stack apples to apples. I have always had consistant good luck with SBS on my own machines, and I install several sets a week on customer machines.

I guess if something works like it should, why switch around? Just beware of the cheapies, I've seen some of the generic brands smoke off in one ride.

Paul

PS, I have never heard of "streamline"

what is sintered ? non-sintered ?
i have a stock ltz what does it have on it ? are they sintered ?
what is going to work with what i have?

i ride a ton of mud, wet trails, and harescrambles, and so far, i burnt through a set of ebc pads, the red ones, for "dry" conditions, in one ride. Then tried a set of ebc heavy duty's, they lasted for about a month, now im going back to stock to see how those hold up. When i bought the z used, it only had like 1/16 pad life left and it lasted for a month or two. So theres my reviews of pads...

Heres the link to streamline brakes...check it out..they really have some nice stuff and seem quite popular

http://streamlinebrakes.com/

Spend the extra money for the sinterend pads (metal shavings imbedded in the asbetos material). The others are junk. I always figured people put them on for a selling cosmetic. Like brand new Cheap tires on a car. Very important, check your brake rotor. If you grind down the pads or run in mud, your rotor will gull. This will kill the life of your new pads in a hurry.

what does gull mean? Should we be lookin into a new rotor if we have run the pads down to bare metal?

I'm sorry, I read your post too fast. As someone has already mentioned, sintered pads have more metallic compound in them. Its alot better "bite" of a brake pad, and almost all of the rear pads I sell are sintered. You can get sintered for the front as well, even though alot of MFG's reccomend ceramic for a bit more heat tolerance, and less bite for better handling under braking.

Paul

This is a good thread....it's getting pinned!!!

On another note...how long would pads under normal riding conditions last? You all will think i'm crazy but my 03 KFX still has stock pads on it...front and rear....of course...for the most of it's life it only seen an mx track 2 times a week.

Gulling is the groves worn into the rotor from uneven surfaces on the brake pad or backing plate. Like if the pad is totaly gone the metal plate that the pads were glued on to rub the rotor. Take your finger and slide it across the rotor where the brake pad would make contact. It needs to be smooth. If it's gouged you should buy a new rotor to save wearing out new pads. On a car, you have the rotors turned to smooth them out. But on a quad or bike there isn't enough thickness to turn them. Replacement is the only option.

Since brake maintance is being discussed, I want to point out another common problem that is often overlooked. The caliper "floats" on the main stay bolted to the carrier. These float pins need to be lubed every so often for the caliper to self center properly. I use spray grease, and just stick the little red straw under the edge of each boot when we do brake jobs. Work it a few times by hand to make sure its not binding.

Paul

If your pads wear extreamly fast your rotor might be bent!!! happened to me

i think the word youre looking for is galling, and galling is that transfer of material from one metal to another. i dont wanna sound like a smart-a$$, just thought id clear that up.

Nice correction.

my personal favorite is the EBC MXS pads. streamline makes great rotors but i have never used their pads. galfer pads seemed to wear out quick for me. the EBC MXS seem to have long life. of course maintenance is key to brake pad life. clean your brakes well and like paul said lube the caliper mount pins and when you take out the pad pins clean them with a wire wheel and put antiseize on them to keep the pads from binding on the pins that hold them in place.

what ever you do DON"T buy no name pads of ebay!!! i did cause i figured it wouldn't be a problem the pad was gone in 5 hours of riding time (trails!) i thought that they would just be to hard and make alittle noise like cheap car brake pads. thank god they were only 15 bucks shipped...... has anyone tried the ebc x series? the red ones. thats what i picked up today. i needed pads for saturday. they are for the rear

so wahts the word on stream line?

I like the tusk pads, there extremely cheap from RMatv and they seem to hold up better than ebc or any other more expensive pads I have owned in the past.

-I mean the tusk sintered metal ones. about 17 bucks from rmatv.

I just put on a new Tusk Typhoon rear rotor and Tusk sintered pads. The pads were gone after a 6 hour ride. That's the last set of Tusk pads I buy. I like the rotor so far though.

I put a set of kevlar pads on teh rear and they where toast after one ride. I have since put dp pads on the rear and they have been on there for a couple seasons already. ( the kevlar pads also left the rotors looking real dull almost as if they left a coating of something.)

Any more reviews on brakes....should i just stick with the sotkc pad.....they seemed to do fine (worn out now the bike is an 05) but id be willing to upgrade if i knew the new pads would last as long.

how much faster do your brake pads wear out if your rotor is "galled" beacuse my rotor is very "galled" and i just replaced my pads after owning my Z for about 7 months and i do lots of heavy braking.

IMO you should get more than just one ride out of a set of rear brake pads no matter what kind of riding. Sounds like something else is going on to make them smoke off like the floats sticking or bent or galled rotor. I just put on the cheapest pads ever! Got 3 sets for $20 and probably ridden 25 hours or so on the first set. They are still in decent shape.

How are you guys burning up your pads so quick???

I don't even remember the last time I used my brakes. You know, gearing down fast works wonders or pull in your clutch leaver when you’re on the brakes or something. Holy smokes 1 ride? Are you kidding me? Ahaha.

I've have a 03 and raced it since 03 and I’m about a 1/4 into the stock pads not even close the replacing but like I said I really don’t remember the last time I used my breaks, I gear down as fast as I can.

I have seen a ton of people slam on their breaks without pulling in there clutch and that’s just asking to burn up your breaks.

I can't keep my face shut on this one......

I ride 1-2 times per month, trails and horsing around in the neigborhood and that is it. When I ride it is for 8-10 hours.

I put brand new EBC pad front and rear on my zee, here it is end of the ride season and I am metal on metal. WTF EBC??

My stockers made it for 3 years, and this hi performance company blows out after 7 months.

I have some full metallic pad en route from streamline, I am hoping for a better braking year in 2010.

i wont waste my money on DP or EBC ever again. i was using the DP 1st. i got sick of them burning out fast. i tried the EBC pads, im not sure which "model" pad they were, but they sucked. i bought some off ebay recently and they are holding up decent. i would love to find some rears to last more than 4-5 rides. i need to find some good front pads now. i am using YFZ450 front caliper. they still have stock pads on them and work damn good. any thoughts on replacements?

I bought a set of red EBC and the cheap RMATV primary drive I believe and the ebc ones burnt out way quicker. ?? they were twice as much too??

Wow - there's a lot of difference of opinion on brake pads. I would like to provide a general comment on those experiencing ultra short brake life, (and I did see a comment on this already) #1 grease the floater pin(s). If the caliper is not allowed to moved freely on that pin(s), your brakes will bind and wear uneven and quick. #2 Galled rotors - if your discs are rough to the touch -( feel like rough sand paper or unpolished metal) they are going to EAT pads no matter what brand they are. The best bet for your sanity and wallet in the the long run is to get new brake discs - I've really never tried to turn down ATV or dirtbike rotors but i doubt it can be done because they are thin to begin with.