hey guys i was wondering if anyone had some tips or advise for me on flattracking. i have been doin it on the ice all winter trying to get a lil better and used to it. but i have around 700 bucks to dump into my z, i allready have tires, rims, lowering kit for it. i know im gonna have to change my gears and chain i was thinking 1 size down in the front and either 1 or 2 more in the rear.
thanks
Alex

gearing will depend on the track.
What size tires are you going to run also matters.
20" or 59.5 rollout or 18" will all mess with gearing decisions.
Use a speed calculator to get you in the ball park, but don't trust it completely.
Try to gear around using your pulling gears, instead of getting all the way to 5th.
Once again it depends on the tracks you'll run at, how fasdt you can go and how fast you have to pull off the corners.

From my experience, drag as much drag as you can. Take the time to use chain lube around hub bearing seals and axle seals, lube the chain very well, and shave a few ponds on what you can.

Mostly, without knowing your tracks you'll be running, I say spend most of that money on power mods.
If you run on tight courses where accel is key, get an FCR carb, gear down to use 4th, and figure out your handling.
A sway bar/anti-roll bar is a great investment for Flat Track or TT racing.

Figured I'd get that all out there cause I'll be away from the house for a few days and won't be able to answer more detailed.

i dont do much racing but i do know a good handling quad is the key to success. it doesnt matter what kind of track you race at. good luck.

get ya a swaybar of some sort. I made my own, but I only race the county fair flattracks around here, so I didn't want to spend a whole bunch of cash on it. I'd also find some way to get wider. Preferably with a-arms and an axle, but wider offset rims and spacers will work okay if you don't run a whole series, and only a couple of races.

johnsoninc86 how dit you do it to build your own swaybar?
do you have some pic's?

Go to lowes and go to the metal section. They will have round rod and round tube. Find a rod that fits just inside of the tubing. I think the size that I used was close to 3/4 inch in diameter, but use the biggest that they have, but don't go over like an 1 1/4", that would be overkill. This will be the main part of your swaybar. Then grab 2ft of 1"x1" angle iron and this will be your arms that come off the swaybar. Also be sure to grab some metal to make the mounting points. This will vary depening on how you want to mount yours. I mounted mine to the top of my PRM bumper. While your there, go ahead a grab a zerk fitting and a nut that will fit it. I then had to track down some heim ends, or spherical rod ends, from a local specialty store. This is the expensive part. They usually run about 8 bucks a piece, and you need four of them. I used the heim ends, a short piece of all-thread, and some jam nuts to make the links that go down to my shock mounts. I then used some really long bolts to replace my lower shock bolts and used those as the mounting point for the lower end of the links. Alot of it is custom, made to fit your specific setup. Some people run their links inside their a-arms, in front of the shock, others run it right in front of their a arms, and others run it somewhere behind. Its all going to be up to you. Once you get all the parts mocked up, slide the rod through the tube, weld on both of the arms, weld on your zerk fitting bolt, and weld up some sort of mounting system. A lot of people use their upper shock mounts for this, but my bumper was a lot easier. Cut your all-thread to the right length, thread on your jamb nuts, then your heim joints, and bolt everything up. I dont have any pictures of it up close, so this is the best I can do for a description. I think mine ended up being about $60 to build, and I haven't had a problem with it yet. I dont think you would want to go out and race supermoto with it, but its great for local county fair flat tracks. Here's the best picture that I can do for it.

^^ I basically did the same thing, except swapped out some stuff with a little stronger material so it would last a little longer under fast races.
Total cost was about 18 bucks since I had the tubing and welder. Just had to buy to stock.

thanks johnsoninc86!
i'm gonna see if i can make it to