I know most of you wont care but did it all by my lonesome self over the Labor day weekend. Thank god for pneumatic framing guns or I would of never even thought about doing this. I got 100 pieces of 2x4x10 for free so I had to do it. Total cost was 335$ for the side paneling and the roofing. The z actually helped a lot in taking the heavy azz paneling from my trailer to the shed.
oh and its 14'x14' and 10 feet high with an 18 inch pitch.

looks pretty clean. im a framer myself and just built my neighbor a dog house built to code.

did you use california corners on the ends of the walls? and did you consider putting cap plates on top of the top plate of the wall sections? cuz these are the two things that really help lock it all in tight.

thats actually a 1.3/12" roof pitch.
pitch is the ratio of total wall length:roof height
slope is the ratio of half length of wall:roof height

which translate into 1.3/12" pitch or 2.6/12" slope

Lookin good!

Jesus where were you at 2 months ago when I was begging for help. Well Im not sure what you are asking me but if you explain what it looks like Ill be able to tell you. I just pretty much downloaded some instructions online and went with that. I had been contemplating building this thing for the past 2 years and finally it was like the stars aligned because of free wood+long weekend+free framing gun.

Can you tell me if that roof seems like its being supported enough? I dont know if the weight of the roof can be loaded onto the 2x4 running across. I was thinking of running 2 more (1 on each side) and then bracing it some more.

edit: Ok i just googled california corners and cap plates... Yes I used them. I just didnt know what it was called and the pictures were taken before I raised the trusses.
thanks

i wish i had a sand backyard!!

does it ever snow there? and how often? that all you really have to worry about for the load thats gonna be on the roof besides the material its self. but from the picture's i would say that your roof isnt supported nearly enough.

do something like this on every single truss (even the gable-ends) which is called a chord brace.........


and as well as this, its called gable-end framing.......


glad i could help. any other questions, just ask.....oh and about 2 months ago i was pretty new at the site and still learning what to click on and how to use the site

i need some one to come build me a building. i dont have enough room in my garage for all my crap.

I already did the Gable-end framing because once I was done I was like "there is no way in hell that is going to be strong enough so I went back to my engineering thought process and did it. I was thinking of what to do about the trusses but now Im going to do the chord brace. I get snow maybe once every other year but what I do get is high winds on a regular basis at the begining of summer time. By high winds i mean anywhere from 30-60mph gusts. Just this saturday I had 20mph winds.

since its higher than everything around it, you'll run a greater risk of having the roof takin off by the wind. depending on how your trusses are sitting on the walls, you can buy "Hurricane Clips" from the lumber store, or if they wont be able to be attached properly to serve its purpose well, you can always take a simple length of 2x4 and secure the roof and the wall together. also, did you install blocking between the trusses to keep birds out and to properly space the trusses and help keep it together? and i couldnt tell from the picture or not but are the very lowest members of wood regular 2x4's or are they treated? because anything that touches the ground or concrete should be treated wood.

I plan on blocking in between the trusses last and I did not know about the hurricane clips. The very lowest are regular 2x4's and not treated. I know its the wrong way but it was like a spur of the moment thing to build this thing. Is water damage my main concern? I ask because it rarely rains here. Maybe 5 times out of the year. I was just planning on sealing the entire thing as i got a 5 gallon bucket of sealer for free also. I also need to go to my work and pick up a concrete nail gun (the one that shoots with blank 22 cal rounds) and anchor the bases.

you dont necessarily need a concrete nail gun....ive always drilled the correct holes in the concrete and through the base plate and pounded spikes in the hole. ive done it on every house ive built. but if you can use the concrete one then it'll work too. and since it doesnt rain there, you're only concern should be termites and other bugs as far as the base is concerned. if you're able to get a "breaker bar" (used to break up concrete chunks) that has a pry end on it, shove it under the base and lift up the walls little by little until you can get some treated wood under there. you dont necessarily have to secure the treated wood to it because the shed is heavy enough, it wont make a difference. oh and there's also shielding stuff you can get that goes between the treated wood and the wall which will keep termites from getting to the tasty stuff cuz they wont chew on treated wood. i cant remember exactly what its called but its basically just sheet metal pre-bent to keep bugs from getting any higher, but the sealer you have will certainly protect agaisnt those P.O.S's flying ants and termites that we have here.

Good to see you did it decent. A lot of people scab shops together.

Did you use any hurricane clips? It's a little late now I guess. But they will add a good bit of strength to the whole picture.
Also wouldn't hurt to have some wind bracing in those walls, if you didn't add any after those pics of the framing.
Just a couple things that will help with the wind and snow.

We used a butt load of hurricane clips and some 1/8"x3/4"x8' metal strap wind bracing, in every wall.
Our house is the only two story in the neighborhood, and it's the only house that got NO damage from the tornado in April.
Everything for at least 60ft either side of the house got leveled, and the Church directly across the street got tore up, but the house just got a couple shingles turned up.
Good construction pays.

this is exactly what i was thinking when i saw the first three pics...

Im not 100% done with it yet. It still looks somewhat like the pictures so I will go out today and buy the hurricane clips you guys are suggesting. Also I did do wind bracing but I didnt know what it was called. Again Im doing stuff that I dont know the name of. In my "research" I went to Home depot and looked inside their sheds to see what they had to get an idea of what mine should look like.

thanks
this isnt me but I found this while googling "hurricane clips". 2 sluttos with a hammer:)

oh snap I have room for all my shiet

Looks like she's done up.. good job man.

I am a construction superintendent (building condos right now), use to be a city employed building inspector and I was a piece working framer for 20 years before all that, all here in earthquake country.
If you are going to put plywood or solid sheet siding (like T-1-11) you won't need any other type of bracing. Just use some diagonal braces on the inside to hold it square/plumb until you nail the sheathing off. You should be nailing wall and roof sheathing at 6" at the edges and 12" in the field minimum.
As for the roof, I would add a 2x4 form the bottom of the rafter to the bottom of the rafter on every one (rafter ties).
You could also add the higher ones (collar ties where I come from) as in the picture by NV but I don't think with that span that you need them.
Hurricane clips are a must. The Simpson H1's work well or you could use the H2.5 because the rafter ties will get in the way of the H1's.

Not sure where you live but in most places a structure that big requires a building permit and also needs to be setback a certain distance from the property line. Minimum of 5' usually but could be as much as 15' depending on what's on theother side and the city ordinances. With a 10' plate line it's going to be pretyy hard to hide........

All and all I'd say for a rookie it looks pretty good but if a building inspector (especially if he's a w00ter) gets alhold of it he will tear you up.

theres a few things you could have done different but its not bad. doubling up the top plate, using a header above your door opening supported with jack studs. im not sure if you plan on finishing the inside at all, but next time you should think about framing to corners differently so you have an inside nailer. and since you only used a 2x4 for a ridge you should deffinately put collar ties in every 16 inches. and i think you were talking about fastening the walls to a concrete slab? you could always just use cut nails. they hold like a mother. or if you did have a hammer drill just use some tapcons.